To avoid common suit style mistakes, prioritize a proper fit, observe specific buttoning rules, and coordinate accessories like shoes and belts correctly.
Fit and Tailoring Don’ts
The fit of your suit is the most crucial element; an ill-fitting suit, regardless of cost, will look unpolished.
- Don’t wear a suit straight off the rack without alterations. Even off-the-rack suits often need minor adjustments to fit properly.
- Don’t wear a jacket that is too loose or too tight. You should be able to slip your hand between your buttoned jacket and chest, where it should feel snug but with room to move.
- Don’t have your shirt cuffs go over your hands. Ideally, about a quarter to half an inch of your shirt cuff should be visible beneath the jacket sleeve.
- Don’t let your trousers “puddle” over your shoes. The pant hem should sit right at the top of your shoe (no break) or have a slight break, without bunching up.
Buttoning Don’ts
Specific rules for buttoning a suit are a hallmark of proper etiquette.
- Don’t ever fasten the bottom button of a single-breasted suit jacket or waistcoat.
- Don’t sit down with your jacket buttoned. Unbutton it before sitting to prevent straining the fabric and maintain the suit’s shape.
- Don’t leave all buttons of a double-breasted suit unfastened (unless it has only a single button).
- Don’t leave the top button of your shirt unbuttoned when wearing a tie. The top button is made to be closed for a sharp, clean look.
Accessory and Styling Don’ts
Accessories should complement the suit, not distract from it.
- Don’t mismatch your leathers. Your belt and the color of your shoes should always match.
- Don’t wear white socks with a suit or dress shoes; make sure your socks are long enough to cover your legs when seated.
- Don’t match your pocket square and tie in the exact same pattern or fabric. Instead, choose a pocket square that complements a color in your shirt, tie, or jacket.
- Don’t over-accessorize. Limit yourself to a few key pieces like a quality watch, tie, and pocket square.
- Don’t wear athletic watches or sneakerswith a formal suit.
- Don’t use your suit pockets (other than the breast pocket). Using them can cause them to bulge and warp the shape of the suit.
General Maintenance Don’ts
Proper care is essential for a lasting, polished look.
- Don’t overlook fabric quality. Avoid cheap synthetic fabrics that wrinkle easily and lack breathability; opt for natural fibers like wool or cotton.
- Don’t forget to remove the temporary stitching on the back vents and the brand label on the sleeve before wearing a new suit.
- Don’t wear wrinkled or dirty clothes. Regularly steam or iron your clothes to maintain a crisp, clean appearance.
- Don’t hang your suit on thin wire hangers. Use a sturdy, wide-shouldered hanger to maintain the jacket’s shape.